by Charlie
"CUPS" Stapleton
originally published in the Caboose Kibitzer V46, N2
It goes without saying that model railroading can
be a very exacting hobby. It all depends on how well detailed you want your
locomotives, rolling stock, structures, scenery and/or trackwork. Some modelers
are very particular in one or two phases, while a few are extremely rigid in
all aspects of the hobby. One of my areas happens to be trackwork and I don’t
mind saying that I enjoy it. My railroad stands to verify this statement by the
fact over 600’ of the track is hand laid. Also, about 60 of my 157 turnouts are
scratchbuilt. Now let’s get down to the nitty-gritty.
First of all, let me get one point across - hand
laid track is not very difficult, but it is very time consuming. Also, don’t
plan on saving a lot of money as the materials for hand laying track will run
about as much per foot as flex track. Hand laid turnouts, however, can save you
quite a bit of money.
Wood ties are pretty easy to come by, depending on
what brand you select. I started out using Kappler, then all of a sudden they
became scarce. Only by checking every hobby store I came across during my
travels was I able to keep from running out. In selecting your ties, make sure
you use the correct size and type for the era you are modeling. Ties have
increased in size since the days of steam, so if you are into the more modern
era of railroading it might help to check tie size with the railroad you are
modeling.
The size of rail to use is strictly up to you. I
have been using code 100, but if I had it to do over again I would have gone
with code 83. It is a little more realistic in size and gives the point rails
in hand built turnouts a lot more flexibility. Rail can be purchased already
weathered or plain if you want to do your own weathering. Micro Engineering
weathered rail was my choice, and saved a lot of time by not having to paint
it. It is sold in 99’ bundles of 33 three foot lengths.
Spikes must be thin enough so as not to split the
tie when you drive them in. Micro Engineering spikes were my choice as their
small size doesn’t look like you used ten penny nails to spike your track. If
you are fortunate enough to own or have access to a Kadee spiker, the use it!
This will also save you a considerable amount of time.
Once you have accumulated the materials, you can
start your project. I found that laying each tie individually was too time
consuming so I manufactured a jig. Using a ¼" by 3" by 2’ piece of
basswood for the base, I glued a ¼" square piece along the length of one
side. This serves as a backstop as I lay the ties in the jig. Using scale
2" x 12" lumber, I glued 1¼" pieces perpendicular to the
backstop, spacing them so that a tie could be laid between each one. This jig
allows me to lay a tie between each strip, using the backstop to keep them
even. By applying masking tape to the tops of the ties, I can lift a two foot
section of ties from the jig ready to be glued into place.
Using a straight edge, draw a guide line on your
choice of roadbed. I chose Homa-bed for its ability to hold spikes in place.
The ties I used were not all exactly the same length, so I made sure the ends
that were against the backstop of the jig were laid on the guide line. If you
are laying a curve, it will be necessary to cut a spline about halfway through
the tape at every second tie. This allows the ties to "lay into the
curve." Full strength Elmer’s white glue was my choice for gluing the ties
to the roadbed. After the glue has thoroughly dried, you must sand the tops of
the ties with a sanding block to make sure the tops of all the ties are of
uniform height.
There are several tie stains available, but I
chose "Liquitex" acrylic Mars Black. One, two ounce tube will stain a
lot of ties. I dipped a ¾" brush in water, then dabbed it into the paint
that I had squeezed onto a coffee can lid. Then I applied it to the ties,
brushing it on the ends first, then the tops, checking to make sure that the
sides are covered as well.
Spiking the rail to the ties is the most time
consuming part. NMRA standards call for rail to be spiked to at least every
fifth tie. This gives the rail the solidness it needs to hold it in place.
Start laying the rail by making sure it is centered on the ties. In other
words, make sure you have an equal amount of tie sticking out on the sides of
both rails. Rail gauges come in all configurations and you can pick the ones
that best suit you.
Start by laying two lengths of rail on the ties
separated by the rail gauges. Spiking only one rail at a time, you can
use a straight edge or "eye ball" it as I did. This "eye
ball" talent is one of the gifts I got from my Dad. When laying the first
rail of the pair, I spiked every tenth tie, then went back and got the fifth
ones in-between. This seemed to cut a little bit of the time. When spiking the
second rail, make sure you don’t have the rail ends directly across from each
other. I like to have about eight to ten inches separating the rail joints. Use
your NMRA track gauge as you go to ensure the proper distance between the
rails. I have found that a pair of needle nose chain pliers is best suited for
driving the spikes. Make sure that the spike goes straight down into the ties
so that it doesn’t interfere with the one coming in from the other side of the
rail. Of course, when laying any rail, always make sure that there is a slight
gap at the rail joiners to allow for expansion and contraction. I like to use a
business card as it has just the right thickness for this gap.
Soldering electrical drops to weathered rail can
be a little tricky. You must burnish the rail where the drop is to be soldered
or it won’t stick. A moto-tool with a wire wheel will allow you to get down to
the bright metal without damaging the rail. You can paint the solder roof brown
to cover up the shininess.
With a lot of patience you can lay rail as
good or better than anyone else. Modelers who see my railroad for the first
time just shake their heads and tell me what a glutton for punish-ment I am.
But I did it and I’m durn proud of it. And be sure to wear those safety
glasses when you are using any power equipment or driving spikes. The
spikes have, at times, been known to pop out of the jaws of the pliers. Till
next time, there ain’t nuthin phunner than bein’ a model railroader!!
